芬兰桑拿精灵的故事Story of Finnish Sauna Elf

芬兰桑拿精灵的故事Story of Finnish Sauna Elf

“这个世界不需要更多成功的人,却迫切地需要和平者,疗愈者,分享故事和充满爱和力量的信使。”
This planet does not need more “successful people”, it desperately needs more peacemakers, healers, restorers, storytellers and lovers of all kinds.

旅行是无法复制的体验,远比物质的拥有更长久,甚至,在自己活出精彩的时候,那股能量是可以鼓励到别人,甚至影响到很多生活失去方向感的人。
大学时代,我用业余时间做兼职口译,那个时候没有出过国门。记得有一次,我代表一家芬兰木材出口商出席一个展览,那是我第一次听说芬兰闻名的传统桑拿,从地域上来讲,芬兰80%的地区都是自然森林,漫长的冬季,冰天雪地的自然环境让芬兰人自然而然将桑拿渗透到他们的日常生活中。

Finnish sauna

Finnish sauna


Many years ago, when I was working as a freelancer interpreter, I worked on a project for a Finnish Woods exporter at a Trade show, that was the first time I heard about Finnish Sauna, Geographically speaking, nearly 80% of the land in Finland are natural forests. The natural resource and cold weather made it a perfect match for Finnish culture to integrate Sauna into their daily life. Before I went to Finland, I didn’t realize the importance of Sauna until I recently experienced the mystery of it at Ruka & Kuusamo, the famous lapland in Finland.
Finnish people believe that every sauna has an elf to protect it. If you had an argument during sauna, Elf would feel offended, and burn your house. They also say elf existed so that children don’t do anything silly during sauna. Parents will take 3 months year old children to sauna too.

终于,多年后的现在,我亲身体验了芬兰的桑拿文化。位于芬兰北部,靠近俄罗斯边境的库萨莫尽管离北极圈还有二十多公里,但已被芬兰人称为“拉普兰开始的地方”,这里也是冬季体验芬兰户外极冻冰点的地方。
而周围的滑雪胜地卢卡小镇是我们将要体验芬兰户外活动的大本营,滑雪,拉狗雪橇,圣诞老人的驯鹿,冰山攀岩,冰湖漂流等等,还可以品尝库萨莫地区山野林间,湖海之中的特色食材烹饪的芬兰北部菜肴。
这里大都是当地自家的房子改造成木屋旅馆,他们也以继承家业为傲,虽然我不是野味爱好者,入乡随俗我品尝了他们夏天采摘的各式浆果配嫩炒驯鹿肉(reindeer) 或者陀鹿肉(moose),或者通过冰钓的方式钓来新鲜的三文鱼做汤喝。
ice floating

ice floating


既然主题是芬兰桑拿,你会想,桑拿到底有什么好写的?很难想象芬兰人有如此创意丰富的桑拿体验,对他们而言,桑拿并不是一种特别的存在,而是深深植入渗透到他们每天的日常生活方式里。
库萨莫的Rukan Salonki旅游的Eveliina (Salongintie 2, Rukatunturi, rukansalonki.fr)穿着一身睡袍,带着一个精灵帽子出现在我们的面前。
Finnish people believe that every sauna has an elf to protect it. If you had an argument during sauna, Elf would feel offended, and burn your house.
They also say elf existed so that children don’t do anything silly during sauna. Parents will take 3 months year old children to sauna too.
sauna elf

sauna elf


Our guide, aka Sauna elf Eveliinna told us stories about Sauna. It’s a tradition for Finnish people. Every Finnish family has a sauna, it’s imbedded into their lifestyle.  Sauna also offers a great way for Finish people to socialize.
It is a really mindful thing to do, because you don’t have cell phones there, perfect time to enjoy a quality time with family and friends.
Rumor has it that Women even give birth at their sauna, because it’s warm and clean and soothing. It has therapeutical affects.
They use the natural type of leaves Nettle to mix with honey, and salt for scrubbing the body.
Before Finnish bride gets married, in order to wish her happy marriage, her friends will take her to a ritual sauna. They will put Nettle or birch branch (vasta) underneath her body, that is a kinda of the herb which make people feel pricking, that is to remind the bride that marriage is not always smoothy. Then the bride has to circle around the sauna room shouting her ex names naked, in order to let go of the past failed relationship. We were joking about if she has many exes, then she will freeze in the cold weather before her wedding.
Finnish sauna can be really gentle, not like other sauna, if you stay there for 5 minutes, you already feel dizzy. Every sauna room’s door has a space which allows air to come in. We have to drink a lot of water or their special Tanva tea which helps our metablism to speed up. The toxic in our body can be swept off because when we sweat, it goes away.
Luka ice sauna

Luka ice sauna


在短短相处的几个小时内,我听着这位精灵姐姐出神入化地讲解桑拿的故事,仿佛带我们进入了一个神秘的精灵世界。她说:每个蒸桑拿的人都会戴上一个精灵帽子,一是为了保护头部受寒,二是为了尊重护桑拿的精灵,在这样一个冬季童话故事背景下,芬兰人让童话变成现实。
在芬兰,蒸桑拿不仅仅是每个芬兰家庭的日常活动,也是年轻人社交最平常的项目,而且,家里人都是赤身裸体面对彼此,他们对身体的开放态度,一开始让我有些惊讶,但后来我体会到,芬兰人对待身体的心态是一种毫无扭捏亲近大自然和家人的方式。在这种天人合一的环境影响下,身体只是灵魂在世的一种外在显现,越能够坦然自如地面对裸体,身心越是清明通透。
这也是我之前不了解的,一直以为芬兰冰雪世界的户外活动闻名于世,原来静态的身心平衡蒸桑拿也是旅游的一大特色。特别是在现代生活,大家很难真正静下心交心,智能手机让朋友家人间的交流沟通变得格外的困难,我们成了手机的奴隶。蒸桑拿时,无法带手机进入,让我们可以真正享受和家人朋友单纯的聊天时间。
每个桑拿房都有一个精灵守护着它,如果你在桑拿房吵架,精灵就会生气, 然后烧掉你的房子,大人们就用精灵的故事来吓唬小孩子,以免他们在桑拿房捣蛋。最有意思的是:3个月大的孩子就可以跟着父母一起蒸桑拿。
在芬兰,桑拿房还有一个特别的功能,因为温暖和干净的环境,为临床待产的芬兰女子提供了完美的场所,所以很多传统的芬兰人选择在自家的桑拿房生孩子。
就连结婚前的派对,也可以和闺蜜一起在桑拿房庆祝,为祝福新娘婚姻美满,她的闺蜜们会让新娘坐在荨麻或者桦树枝上面,这些药草会让她感到疼痛,寓意:婚姻本不是一帆风顺,免不了磕磕碰碰。此外,新娘还得在室外裸身绕着桑拿房跑,一边绕圈一边大声喊着前任的名字,目的是为了彻底放下过去的感情。那如果新娘的前任太多,岂不是要绕好多圈,内心直接奔溃。
 芬兰小木屋

芬兰小木屋


芬兰桑拿的温度相对温和,不至于让人头晕目眩。每个桑拿房都有空间让空气流进来。当然,为促进新城代谢,我们需要喝大量的水或者特殊的Tanva茶。当我们出汗时,身体里的有毒物质也随之排出。也可以使用天然的荨麻叶参上蜂蜜和盐按摩身体。
我们在Rukan Salonki小木屋入住,便迫不及待地要体验全球闻名的冰雪桑拿屋,听Eveliina解释,我们是今年冬季第一批体验冰雪桑拿屋的游客,今年拉普兰地区入冬有些晚,1月初才能就地取材,用冰雪打造各种娱乐设施,比如冰酒吧、冰教堂、冰桑拿,北极圈的旅行项目很多时候得听从大自然的安排。这个桑拿屋虽然主主体(墙壁和顶棚)以冰块造成,但座椅是木制的,室内的温度也能达到70度左右,对于芬兰人来说,最舒服的温度时80度到100度左右。
从完全用冰块打造而成的“冰雪桑拿屋” ,到传统的烟熏桑拿,和8小时的极致桑拿大巴,还有身受现代女性钟爱的桑拿瑜伽,我们开始学会享受这种独特方式所带来的五感满足,甚至在离开芬兰后,还深深怀念冬季桑拿的惊喜,刺激和挑战。
snowcapped ice sauna

snowcapped ice sauna


ICE SAUNA, it’s a house built of ice and with the right temperature, we get to enjoy sauna inside.The best part is ice hole dipping , after enjoying sauna, we can jump into 0 degree of water to enjoy that hot + cold sensation. When I did it the first time, I couldn’t help screaming so loud. The after feeling was insane, you have to try it to understand the extreme feeling.  Right after I got out the ice hole, my blood vessles expanded and I don’t feel that cold all of a sudden.
你一定会想,冰屋里那么热,为什么冰不会融化呢?问得好,因为冰室极好的绝缘体,当桑拿屋内的温度逐渐升高,热气会通过房间中央的烟囱排放出去,所以我们可以尽情享受桑拿,而不会令冰块融化。(洗个桑拿都可以学物理知识呢,看来学生时代的物理学习完全是建立在理论上,能记住的一定需要有乐趣的实践活动)
奇妙的桑拿后感觉:是一种身体和心灵被同时洗涤的美妙感觉,特别是刚刚蒸完后,身体被蒸得通红,Eveliina对我说,在中国你们没去过长城就不算好汉,我们芬兰人没钻过冰洞,就不算真正体验过芬兰文化,原来,芬兰人会在冰冻的湖面上钻出一个小洞,蒸完桑拿一口气扎进冰洞,体验那种冰火两重天的滋味。
ice sauna

ice sauna


They have many different types of sauna, I have tried Smoked sauna (savusauna), the smoke enters the room while the sauna is being heated and produces a pleasant fragrance of wood smoke. A wood-fired stove is most usual in Finland. but now, the electric stove is most common, traditional one has to be heated 5 hours by labour, which is way more expensive.
虽然做了不少心里建设,但是既然来了就要体验当地习俗,这是我的旅行修为。第一次尝试的确需要足够的勇气,的确很难用语言去形容那种刚从桑拿房走出来,全身冒着烟,钻入冰水几秒钟后的感受,只记得身体的刺痛和刺激让我忍不住放声大叫,离开冰水后,麻痹感立即消失,随之而来的是血液循环加快,身体也不再觉得那么冷,只是穿着比基尼的我立马冲进桑拿房,毕竟室外是零下5度的天气。如果你愿意,完全可以持续重复这个过程。芬兰人真的是疯了。
ice dipping Finnish sauna culture

ice dipping Finnish sauna culture


芬兰人爱好桑拿,还为此建立了一个会员制的桑拿协会,这也是赫尔辛基人心中仅存的正统桑拿大本营,Finnish Sauna Society位于芬兰赫尔辛基市中心20分钟车程,我有幸在 Nortic Blogger Experience (北欧博主交流活动)期间和来自各国的旅游达人一起洗桑拿,烤香肠,扎冰洞,真是不亦乐乎。三个传统的烟熏桑拿、两个使用木柴加热炉的普通桑拿和电炉桑拿,60多个人挤在一起,完全忘记了文化差异。
蒸桑拿时,每间桑拿房所产生的水蒸气都很重要,现代的桑拿都用电热炉在短时间内迅速加热石块,再产生蒸汽的。而传统的烟熏桑拿屋时需要用木柴缓缓加热六七个小时,产生的温度和熏木的香气和蒸汽,都是最佳组合。
林语堂在《生活的艺术》中说:“洞察人类人性的中国人,宁可解决问题于筵席而不愿对簿公堂。” 芬兰的商人和政客会带竞争对手一起去蒸桑拿,在热气腾腾的桑拿房,敌意化为蒸汽,固执随之融化,进而双方达成一致,互相妥协。
初次体验桑拿的小窍门:通常,热空气会往上走,桑拿房最热的地方就是墙和天花板的交界处。如果你坐着,你的头顶就是最热的地方,所以你最好先躺在座位上,把脚悬空,脚比头可耐热多了。
终极体验:13小时的桑拿之旅,一辆有桑拿房和卡拉OK的大巴带你体验不同种类的桑拿。尽管我没有机会体验,但我完全可以想象美妙的桑拿浴后,身体那种舒适感和润滑感。
Finnish sauna society

Finnish sauna society


Lin Yutang wrote in “The importance of Living” that when a Chinese is engaged in difficult negotiations he first gives his antagonist a delicious meal in pleasant surroundings and only then gets down to the difficult part of the meeting. The guest is so comfortable after the meal in the pleasant surroundings that he finds it hard to argue.
Finnish businessmen and politicians take their adversaries to the Sauna. Hostility melts in the steam as the birch whisks swish, and stubborn minds begin to accept compromise. You can’t really say no in your birthday suit, can you?
A tip for newbies: Usually hot air rises, so the hottest place in the sauna is where the walls and ceilings meet. If we sit on the platform, our head will be exposed to the most heated place. So you might start with lying on the platform with your feet in the air. Feet can stand the heat better than the head.
the ultimate tour is 13 hours sauna tour, they take you on a bus which has sauna and Karaoke on it, then they bring you to different types of saunas. Even the bus has a sauna on it, and on top of that, a karaoke machine. Even though I haven’t got to experience the ultimate tour, but I could imagine how smoothy my skin would become after the sensational treatment.
Finnish home

Finnish home


Sauna is wellness thing, Leave your worry and hurry in the dressing room before you enter the sauna. Finnish believe in nature, silence. they even have sauna yoga and sauna meditation.
Luckily enough, the next day, we (bloggers from UK, Denmark and US, of course our host Ruka Tourism director Kimmo), tried Sauna yoga. I have tried hot yoga before, but Sauna yoga is a really new thing, even for Finnish people.
冬季的芬兰格外寒冷,活动了一整天,寒冷和肌肉酸痛都会让人格外渴望走进温暖的桑拿房,在柔和、湿润的蒸汽中调整身心的疲惫。智慧的芬兰人还发明了桑拿瑜伽和桑拿冥想。
在桑拿房里做瑜伽据说很吸引现代芬兰女性,我这个热爱身心灵旅行体验的人,怎么可以错过呢?体验之前,我觉得可能和热瑜伽很类似。在传统的湖畔烟熏桑拿房中,我们在50度左右的温度下,体验30分钟的瑜伽,除了我和另一位来自挪威的女生有瑜伽经验,同行的几位男生毫不示落,平时虽然不练习瑜伽,但因为白天户外活动的劳累,和桑拿相关的活动他们都不会拒绝。
桑拿瑜伽的姿势相对瑜伽简单很多,主要目的是为了舒展筋骨,排毒养颜功能更是双倍有效,体验的前提是千万不要勉强自己的身体,如果觉得不舒服,就可以选择出去透气,因为桑拿的目的就是放松身心和疲倦。除此之外,每隔几个姿势,要随时补水。
桑拿瑜伽中还有一个重要的环节,就是静心冥想。这个建在湖和树林里的木屋,感觉整个能量场是通透的,没有城市的噪音,远离喧嚣的静谧让我们与世隔绝,和大自然融为一体,仿佛任何的疾病和伤痛都可以在这里被疗愈,只能听得见自己的呼吸声,享受当下内心的宁静,这也许就是桑拿瑜伽的初衷吧。微弱的火光,每个人都沉浸在自己的世界,时间就这样静止了。
ice karting

ice karting


俗话说得好,“人生就像一段旅程”,事实上,人生是由多场旅程组成的,你走的越远,人生的轨迹就越长。单看我Facebook和微信上的照片,你也许会认为我的旅途一帆风顺、光鲜亮丽,但这并不是全部。没人愿意听陈词滥调,也没人在意一些琐事,例如航班是否经常晚点,是否遗失过钱包,信用卡,身份证,更少有人知道我精彩故事背后隐藏的孤独与平淡。
但这些经历对我而言是独一无二的,是我的宝贵财富,所有的一切使我成为更强更好的自己。这并不单单记录了我走过的路,更记录了旅途中那些有趣的人和事。这些人的人生故事是我博客中最精彩的部分,也最能帮助到那些有共同愿景的伙伴们。我相信,只有敢做,人人都能实现心中的梦想。
There is an old saying that “life is a journey.” In fact, life is many journeys. The more of them you take, the longer it will seem.
If you’ve seen any of my photos I posted on Facebook and wechat, you may think that my travel life is a scrapbook of always-perfect experiences. That’s not entirely true. 
No one wants to hear about the banality. No one cares about all the times I’ve spent waiting in the airports for delayed flights, the time I lost all my wallet, cards, ID cards, cash, everything, the time I met a couple who almost raped me, and all the other tedious moments that happen in between the thrilling ones. 
But sometimes, between the tedium and the thrill, there are moments that you remember – and not because they are great. 

 

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